Monday, November 5, 2012

Salt & Vinegar Crepes with Creme Fraîche and Caviar


          I am rarely nostalgic, but this amuse I developed was based on one of my favorite food memories from my externship at the Broadmoor Hotel.  We had on the menu, a $400 Osetra Caviar Tasting featuring 3 caviars (1/2 oz each) served with various accoutrements which changed from time to time.  One evening we had a gentleman from Texas meander into the kitchen, this being out of the ordinary in and of itself.  He proceeded to order the Caviar tasting to be delivered with room service, but he asked that all of the starches (caramelized brioche, house water crackers) and asked instead that a bag of Lay’s Salt& Vinegar potato chips be delivered.
          It should go without saying that the others and I that worked in the kitchen were intrigued by this, and I am sure that it showed on our faces.  The gentleman laughed, and said that if we were unsure of how it would taste, that we should try the caviar with the chips ourselves, and proceeded to order a second tasting to be left in the kitchen for the cooks to try with a bag of salt & vinegar chips.
          In hindsight, it should have occurred to me that the pairing would be tasty, as the properties of both salt and vinegar lend to the enhancement of flavor natural flavor profiles.  Suffice it to say caviar with salt and vinegar chips has no taken a special place in my heart… or stomach as the place may be.
          While at Blue Ginger, I decided to adapt this fond food memory into an amuse bouche.  In place of the chips, I opted for a more Asian approach with the use of a pancake, or crepe as it more closely resembles in the west. The incorporation of citrus ponzu and gingered sea salt made the crepe pop with bold flavors, and was an incredible vessel for the caviar.  It also allows for some playing with texture.  The crepe maintains a soft texture, but if allowed to cook in a little extra fat, on higher heat, the crepe will develop a crispy skin which will last for several minutes if one decides to make and present al a minute, or can be easily pre made and heated in a steamer to order.  The important thing to remember is that you should never skimp on the caviar… happiness is good caviar!



Salt & Vinegar Crepes with Crème Fraîche and Caviar
Yield: 15-20 Crepes

Eggs                               5 each
Milk                               1 ½ Cup
Citrus Ponzu              ½ Cup
Rice Flour                    1 Pint
Ginger                           1 Finger
Course Sea Salt          1 Cup
Crème Fraîche           as needed
Osetra Caviar              2 oz

1.     Peel and grate the ginger, and place in a square of cheese cloth.  Drain the juice and mix with the sea salt, allow to rest on sheet pan with parchment paper overnight in a oven with ONLY the pilot light on.
2.     Beat the eggs and milk together, add the vinegar and the flour and combine quickly with a whisk.
3.     Rest for 1 hour under refrigeration
4.     Mix gently with spoon and pour into a hot non stick crepe pan that has been liberally seasoned with butter

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