I am rarely nostalgic, but this amuse
I developed was based on one of my favorite food memories from my externship at
the Broadmoor Hotel. We had on the menu, a $400 Osetra Caviar Tasting
featuring 3 caviars (1/2 oz each) served with various accoutrements which
changed from time to time. One evening we had a gentleman from Texas meander
into the kitchen, this being out of the ordinary in and of itself. He proceeded to order the Caviar tasting to be
delivered with room service, but he asked that all of the starches (caramelized
brioche, house water crackers) and asked instead that a bag of Lay’s Salt&
Vinegar potato chips be delivered.
It
should go without saying that the others and I that worked in the kitchen were intrigued
by this, and I am sure that it showed on our faces. The gentleman laughed, and said that if we
were unsure of how it would taste, that we should try the caviar with the chips
ourselves, and proceeded to order a second tasting to be left in the kitchen
for the cooks to try with a bag of salt & vinegar chips.
In
hindsight, it should have occurred to me that the pairing would be tasty, as the
properties of both salt and vinegar lend to the enhancement of flavor natural
flavor profiles. Suffice it to say
caviar with salt and vinegar chips has no taken a special place in my heart… or
stomach as the place may be.
While
at Blue Ginger, I decided to adapt this fond food memory into an amuse
bouche. In place of the chips, I opted
for a more Asian approach with the use of a pancake, or crepe as it more closely
resembles in the west. The incorporation of citrus ponzu and gingered sea salt
made the crepe pop with bold flavors, and was an incredible vessel for the
caviar. It also allows for some playing
with texture. The crepe maintains a soft
texture, but if allowed to cook in a little extra fat, on higher heat, the
crepe will develop a crispy skin which will last for several minutes if one
decides to make and present al a minute, or can be easily pre made and heated
in a steamer to order. The important
thing to remember is that you should never skimp on the caviar… happiness is
good caviar!
Salt & Vinegar Crepes with Crème Fraîche
and Caviar
Yield: 15-20 Crepes
Eggs 5
each
Milk 1
½ Cup
Citrus Ponzu ½ Cup
Rice Flour 1
Pint
Ginger 1
Finger
Course Sea Salt 1 Cup
Crème Fraîche as needed
Osetra Caviar 2 oz
1. Peel and grate the ginger, and place in a
square of cheese cloth. Drain the juice
and mix with the sea salt, allow to rest on sheet pan with parchment paper
overnight in a oven with ONLY the pilot light on.
2. Beat the eggs and milk together, add the
vinegar and the flour and combine quickly with a whisk.
3. Rest for 1 hour under refrigeration
4. Mix gently with spoon and pour into a hot
non stick crepe pan that has been liberally seasoned with butter
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